'cookie' engine diary
Posted: Thu May 17, 2007 12:03 am
I'm building a stirling engine made out of a cookie tin, chicken wire, aluminum foil, and whatever else i find lying around the house. I'll update this thread as i make progress.
Since the body is a cookie tin (about 8" in diameter by 4" tall), i'm naming this one 'cookie'. Perhaps i'll rename it later if i can come up with something better.
Goals:
This will look like one of the LTD engines - wide and relatively short, except it will be much larger (8" diameter)
My hope is that i can get it working in the normal flywheel configuration, then start experimenting with ways of changing the mechanism such that the displacer can be made to 'dwell' longer at the resting states, and move only when the gas needs to be shifted (vs being in constant motion, as in a 'normal' stirling engine)
General design:
My initial attempts at construction have been relatively crude. I don't have fancy machine tools (pretty much just a hand drill and a dremel tool), so i'm trying to be creative.
I used a bolt with a hole drilled through it to act as the displacer rod sleeve (based on the tip on the main site here), and am using coat-hanger wire for all my connecting rods and such, since it's readily available.
For the displacer, i made a cylinder shape about 7" by 2" out of chicken wire, and covered it with aluminum foil.
My piston is epoxy formed in a PVC pipe (see my other post about how i made it), and the piston shaft is PVC pipe. Right now it's just attached with superglue because i was in a hurry.
I haven't got a flywheel design picked out yet, but it will probably be an old hard drive, since those generally have sweet bearings and are readily available.
Issues:
I didn't quite get the hole through the bolt straight, and i didn't quite get the displacer shaft hole in the center of the lid. We'll see how detrimental that turns out to be. The coat-hanger wire isn't quite straight, and it binds a bit as it slides in and out. I bought a bunch more bolts so hopefully i can re-do that part of it. I'm thinking i may just shave down the wire a little and hope the leakage isn't too bad.
The lid to the jar doesn't seal well, so i taped around it with masking tape. Surprisingly, this seems to work pretty well.
I also get a good seal between the bolt/displacer rod. I didn't expect that.
.. so does it work?
The current design needs a lot of tweaking (counterweights for the displacer, displacer rod isn't straight, etc, but at least in theory it's promising.
I did a test today after getting everything assembled, glued in and taped down. Here's how it went:
(keep in mind that right now there's just the power piston and the displacer rod, no flywheel, nothing connecting them together)
i put the engine on the stove and turned the burner (gas) on to low. i held the displacer at the 'high' position, and waited. I figure the air should expand and push the power piston up, and i should be able to see that happen.
Unfortunately, the thing just smoked as the labels and such burnt off. It was kind of disappointing. There was smoke coming out of the power cylinder as well, which seemingly indicates a loose-fit, so i got discouraged.
I thought maybe the piston was binding, so I tried a looser piston, but it didn't work either.. even more smoke came out the piston shaft. I thought i was sunk because the first piston i tried was already a pretty tight fit, and any tighter and i would have serious binding issues.
Then i tried simulating the actual stirling cycle, and moved the displacer down to the bottom, then pulled it up to the top.
Pop! The power piston shot out!! i was quite surprised. My piston shaft is about 1" tall, and the piston popped right out, and fell off onto the stove. i did it a few more times just for fun, and with the relatively high-heat of the burner, the engine can definitely move the piston.
That's all for tonight. My next step is to redo the displacer rod and shaft so those are nice and loose, and to decide what the best way to attach the piston/displacer so that the rotation of the flywheel translates to linear motion on the piston/displacer.
cheers
-tmk
Since the body is a cookie tin (about 8" in diameter by 4" tall), i'm naming this one 'cookie'. Perhaps i'll rename it later if i can come up with something better.
Goals:
This will look like one of the LTD engines - wide and relatively short, except it will be much larger (8" diameter)
My hope is that i can get it working in the normal flywheel configuration, then start experimenting with ways of changing the mechanism such that the displacer can be made to 'dwell' longer at the resting states, and move only when the gas needs to be shifted (vs being in constant motion, as in a 'normal' stirling engine)
General design:
My initial attempts at construction have been relatively crude. I don't have fancy machine tools (pretty much just a hand drill and a dremel tool), so i'm trying to be creative.
I used a bolt with a hole drilled through it to act as the displacer rod sleeve (based on the tip on the main site here), and am using coat-hanger wire for all my connecting rods and such, since it's readily available.
For the displacer, i made a cylinder shape about 7" by 2" out of chicken wire, and covered it with aluminum foil.
My piston is epoxy formed in a PVC pipe (see my other post about how i made it), and the piston shaft is PVC pipe. Right now it's just attached with superglue because i was in a hurry.
I haven't got a flywheel design picked out yet, but it will probably be an old hard drive, since those generally have sweet bearings and are readily available.
Issues:
I didn't quite get the hole through the bolt straight, and i didn't quite get the displacer shaft hole in the center of the lid. We'll see how detrimental that turns out to be. The coat-hanger wire isn't quite straight, and it binds a bit as it slides in and out. I bought a bunch more bolts so hopefully i can re-do that part of it. I'm thinking i may just shave down the wire a little and hope the leakage isn't too bad.
The lid to the jar doesn't seal well, so i taped around it with masking tape. Surprisingly, this seems to work pretty well.
I also get a good seal between the bolt/displacer rod. I didn't expect that.
.. so does it work?
The current design needs a lot of tweaking (counterweights for the displacer, displacer rod isn't straight, etc, but at least in theory it's promising.
I did a test today after getting everything assembled, glued in and taped down. Here's how it went:
(keep in mind that right now there's just the power piston and the displacer rod, no flywheel, nothing connecting them together)
i put the engine on the stove and turned the burner (gas) on to low. i held the displacer at the 'high' position, and waited. I figure the air should expand and push the power piston up, and i should be able to see that happen.
Unfortunately, the thing just smoked as the labels and such burnt off. It was kind of disappointing. There was smoke coming out of the power cylinder as well, which seemingly indicates a loose-fit, so i got discouraged.
I thought maybe the piston was binding, so I tried a looser piston, but it didn't work either.. even more smoke came out the piston shaft. I thought i was sunk because the first piston i tried was already a pretty tight fit, and any tighter and i would have serious binding issues.
Then i tried simulating the actual stirling cycle, and moved the displacer down to the bottom, then pulled it up to the top.
Pop! The power piston shot out!! i was quite surprised. My piston shaft is about 1" tall, and the piston popped right out, and fell off onto the stove. i did it a few more times just for fun, and with the relatively high-heat of the burner, the engine can definitely move the piston.
That's all for tonight. My next step is to redo the displacer rod and shaft so those are nice and loose, and to decide what the best way to attach the piston/displacer so that the rotation of the flywheel translates to linear motion on the piston/displacer.
cheers
-tmk