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Trev, You do really have to use steel through out for the crankshaft, and I tend to go up a size for both the main shaft and the crank pins, but you have done well.
I tend to make my shafts from solid, that's even more work.
Ian S C

Thanks Ian - I must get some steel shafting for the cranks as you suggest, but I do find it hard to work with and there is no way I can make a crank from a solid piece - Your the Guru here Ian and I am overwhelmed with your work. I promise to try and make a better one next though it is going to be a Beam type.
Thank you ever so much for your help on this project. Trev

Great job Trevor.

All I can say is there is beauty in function.

Amen! to that James.

trev, continue with the methd of construction that you are using now, you are doing well. Ian S C

I hate Trevor, Trevor made nice engine , I have painted my engine !!
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Wow! Thanh. Nice engine with all that paint work. I have to ask you, how did you make the fins with a parting off blade? I have tried many times without not much success. I don't know what I am doing wrong, but the bloody things keep chattering and then snapping the blade. Checked the angle of cutting to the work, but ALAS - Darn!
Gee you have done some nice work on that engine - Does it run for a long time - I did see the video but was only shoprt.
Trevor

Hi Trevor !! I make the fins with a parting off blade . I think it's not run for a long time ! because all made of aluminum !!
Photos for you !!
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Thank you Thanh - I think I see where I may have been wrong and that is the angle of relief. Mine has been very low or flat compared to yours. Excellent info with the pics - Love them.
I will try what you pics show and let you know in a few days. Like your work Thanh

Trevor

Those fins look cool. Anyone care to explain the function of these fins? I think they look nice on the engine even if its just for aesthetics.

James, the fins increase the area exposed to the air to dissipate the heat, same happens on a motor bike, or lawn mower motor.
Trev, when using the parting tool, knock the speed right back on the lathe, use a steady but slow feed(some people use power feed), if the material is aluminium, lubricate it with WD-40, or kerosene/paraffin(UK), cast iron dry, steel I use soluble cutting oil. Don't have the blade extended any more than need be.
Ian S C

Thanks Ian.I do use dewatering and/or kerosene fluid for aluminium as it is the only thing that works. Got me on the speed though. I was always taught fast with alloys, but this is not necessary so! I have found chattering does stop when going really slow - So your point is taken as gospel to me. Good show mate. Might actually get one made very soon

Trevor

The speed mainly depends on the state of the machinery, light lathes don't absorb the vibrations, a heavy industrial machine will manage the high speeds.
One of the main reasons for high speed machining is money, the faster you can make a part the cheaper it is.
I use mainly HSS tooling, and on ally I usually stick to about 600rpm.
Ian S C

Thanks Ian - Never looked at it that way. We will see how I go next week when I am back from our holiday in the rain.
Trev

Yep! you were right Ian. The slower the better, I have now set my lathe to 150rpm and it works a wonder on the parting off of the alloy and especially brass. I also listened to Thanh as you may have noticed from his pics that the angle of attack was a lot more acute to what I was using. It also made a difference. Trev