Stirlingengineforum.com

That is one of the better builds, still room for improvements, but innovative.
https://youtu.be/BNvJwhhFK6U

Google translate

For those wishing to copy:
The length of the steel working piston is 18, the diameter is 16, the stroke is 42, the length of the connecting rod is 107. The stroke is adjustable. Works with a drop of liquid oil.
Displacer chamber diameter 39 mm, length 92. Displacer diameter 37.5 length 65, displacer stroke 22, rod length 150, connecting rod 52. It is better not to drill holes in the middle of the chamber, it will be difficult to ensure tightness.
The wall thickness of a steel cylinder is 0.5 mm, I used a screen from some kind of device. It can be thicker, but it is advisable to reduce the thickness as much as possible in the middle at a length of 2-3 cm, instead of drilling holes (they are difficult to seal). The hot side is plugged with a piece from a telescopic antenna with a soldered patch at the end and a soldered flange at the base for screws. There is a silicone washer under the flange. The ends of the glass tube (from the fuse) are coated with silicone sealant. At the cold end of the chamber, the sleeve sits in a segment from the same antenna, but of a smaller diameter. The length of the PTFE bushings is 5 mm. The displacer stem has a diameter of 3 mm and is made up of 2 guides from a CD-DVD drive, fastened in the middle with a brass tube. The tin sides are glued to the glass cylinder with a high temperature red silicone sealant from the auto shop (in a tube). The holes for the axle are sealed with silicone washers, which are tightly put on the stem and clamped with clips.
If you find suitable parts for the camera and cylinder with different diameters, then their volumes should be in the same proportion as mine. The crank travel will also change, so adjustments should be made. Stirling is not easy to calculate, so I squeezed the maximum efficiency out of it experimentally.

There are many questions about the application of Peltier elements (EP).
Together with Stirling, they will work ineffectively, because they need a large temperature drop, which is problematic to provide in this engine. For example, if the displacer chamber is made of a heat-conducting metal (copper) and the EF is somehow clamped between its halves, then the Stirling efficiency will decrease due to the high thermal conductivity of the EF, so the overall power increase will not work.
If you make an electric generator only on the electric drive, then, due to the same thermal conductivity, the radiator will quickly heat up, which will reduce energy efficiency and will soon disable the electric drive. They are effective only in the presence of a large flame and with mandatory forced cooling, which will take a significant part of the power to power the fan.
On a low flame of an alcohol lamp, and even more so without forced cooling, this Stirling certainly wins in terms of efficiency in comparison with an EF. It is not necessary to feed it with alcohol, you can even pour oil into the spirit lamp, or heat it with a candle, the output power will even increase! It is even better to heat it up with a gas burner.

Forced blowing of the radiator with a mechanically driven fan, as experiments have shown, does not give a gain, because all the small gain is spent on the rotation of the impeller. The electric fan will only worsen the situation due to the double conversion of energy. The radiator here is sufficiently well cooled by convection, and the spokes of the flywheel disperse the air, blowing it over.

It has been a long time since the discussion started and I did not take the first step in the practical realization!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7lUzKfdHd4&t=305s


Is this it?
I didn't understand where this air conditioning compressor came from.
Where do I buy it? What other vehicles have a similar compressor?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3C6InOvkBKU

How can we compress the air without the piston's friction? to increase efficiency?

Something like this but made of elastic metal to withstand the temperature.
Where can I find or how can I make something like this? (but made of metal)

https://noriel.ro/media/catalog/product ... _11_cm.jpg
[image]https://noriel.ro/media/catalog/product ... _11_cm.jpg[/image]

Dann wrote: ↑Mon Nov 29, 2021 1:52 am
Even a large company like Philips no longer produces generators with a Stirling engine. They cannot go bankrupt. What is the reason for not producing anymore.

The prevalent "conspiracy theory" is that Stirling engines, among other technologies, work too well, and as the world's economy depends on Oil revenues, alternative technologies that could supplant oil cannot be allowed, as it would collapse the economy.

In 2008, concentrated solar powered Stirling engines in the desert were poised to become "the Persian Gulf of solar energy". Quite suddenly, these projects were scrapped. Literally dismantled and sold as scrap.

It is not that they didn't work.

There is no good explanation for this IMO

I know from an insider, (government contractor involved in these developments), that those solar powered Stirling engines were working flawlessly.

I don't know if it's true or not, but I'll share some of the answers in the video above.
The problem is that it is very difficult for an amateur to do what is done industrially or by a company.

For this technique to be useful, it must be superior to its alternatives.
Industrial stirling has 40% efficiency
(heat to electric, but transforming light into heat is close to 1)

The best solar panels have an efficiency of 20%
The usual cheap solar panels are about 5% efficient

But how efficient is amateur stirling? Probably 5-10%?

How to turn heat into electricity?
thermoelectric generator (TEG)
The typical efficiency of TEGs is around 5–8%
from:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoele ... Efficiency

Where can I find something like this but made of elastic metal? I want to compress the air, but without the piston.
Or if I can't figure out how to make it?

airpower wrote: ↑Tue Oct 05, 2021 7:07 am High pressure air power is the future. No need for unnatural lethal AC power at all.
Anything in a homestead with a motor can run of airline or tank. No need for conversions and expensive electronic.
800 watt motor almost perfect match for 1kw free piston engine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeSNEeq42t4
Average home refrigerator uses 350-780 watts

Yes i am very much interrested in free piston engine without the generator part, only attached to a airpump to fill tank.
Simpler, cheaper to build and more efficient.

Just to check, you still need electricity to run the device. Stirling engine could be the go between from heat from the sun to electricity?

airpower wrote: ↑Tue Oct 05, 2021 10:33 pm Heat waste can be overcome with water, commercial solution: https://youtu.be/sBF5EnK9MPs
Air powered tools last longer are cheaper and have more torque than electric counterparts.
Air powered workshop:
https://youtu.be/Oc0b4aBOyBw

Modern air motors are way more efficient the old piston driven variants. Patent and licenses restrict the progress, years pass and pass.....
https://www.engineair.com.au/
The challenge is to find efficient way to get air into the storage tank. The way i see it the free piston engine is one of the best methods.

Thankyou sooo much re Augwind energy vid. Really got the brain ticking over..
Q: If U feed a 100 litre tank with 100 psi of water , having a 1" square equi. entry orifice, sealed with air at atmospheric pressure inside, what will be the equilibrium volume of air remaining.. or how much water will reside in that tank at equilibrium?
Lets assume tank & water is at 20 degrees C.
cheers,
Qtron