Short answer is no.VincentG wrote: ↑Sun May 05, 2024 11:04 am Hey Tom have all your below ambient results been with an acrylic hot plate? I just realized that and it explains why my engine with metal plate always heat soaks the cold plate.
I know the metal hot plate is way overkill for these small ltd engines and have been meaning to test a plastic hot end.
Long answer:
Most of my experiments involved trying to "BLOCK" the heat with insulation so I couldn't see or get any actual readings from the top.
Logically the top of the engine can't really go below ambient when in direct contact with the ambient air. The very slight cooling would be nullified by the ambient heat.
I built this engine with a similar regenerator on the side walls.
The original intent of the insulation with the lid (in the following video) was to put a little container of ice inside the compartment and let ambient heat come up through the bottom to run the engine, so I kept the metal bottom plate for ambient heat input.
This worked great. The engine ran very well at a pretty high RPM. (With just ice in the little compartment under insulation) and I went to show this to my wife all excited, and suddenly the engine just jammed and wouldn't move. It seemed as though the piston had frozen in the cylinder. Literally.
I can't confirm that. A minute after the engine stopped the piston came free again. By the time I got the tape off and opened the compartment the ice had already started melting.
Later I ran this experiment with the same engine but just heated "normally" with a cup of hot water. (Following video)
The cup by the way is a double wall vacuum insulated cup. The idea of using that was just to retain the heat of the hot water as long as possible and so that most of the heat would go up through the engine.
There is some temperature difference between areas on the table in "shade" from the overhead lamp.
Anyway, it can be seen that the heat from the hot water radiates through the walls of the vacuum insulated cup immediately.
The top of the engine, however, does not go above the general ambient. It is in the "shade" under the insulation and the temperature goes up immediately when the insulation is removed letting light in from the overhead lamp, as well as ambient heat.
Maybe not "below ambient" exactly, but I thought it rather remarkable that more heat went through the sides of the double wall vacuum cup much faster than it went up through the engine/regenerator.
This was several years ago, before I had a thermal image gun or thermocouples.
I'm not sure I've seen ANY verifiable "below ambient" of any real significance, just the lower end of ambient.
My main "claim" is that these "near ambient" readings are contrary to the results predicted by the Carnot Limit, which should be showing much more "waste heat" coming through the engine.
Clearly the engine is doing enough "work" to generate heat from friction at the power piston to be detectable by instruments. Yet the "waste heat" that should be, according the the Carnot limit, several times GREATER cannot be detected at all.
The cold side of the engine is no hotter than ambient, and almost looks slightly colder, but it certainly isn't higher. Not receiving ANY "waste heat", which I think indicates extremely high, near 100% efficiency.
https://youtu.be/P11q-BAhvqk