https://youtu.be/BNvJwhhFK6U
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The length of the steel working piston is 18, the diameter is 16, the stroke is 42, the length of the connecting rod is 107. The stroke is adjustable. Works with a drop of liquid oil.
Displacer chamber diameter 39 mm, length 92. Displacer diameter 37.5 length 65, displacer stroke 22, rod length 150, connecting rod 52. It is better not to drill holes in the middle of the chamber, it will be difficult to ensure tightness.
The wall thickness of a steel cylinder is 0.5 mm, I used a screen from some kind of device. It can be thicker, but it is advisable to reduce the thickness as much as possible in the middle at a length of 2-3 cm, instead of drilling holes (they are difficult to seal). The hot side is plugged with a piece from a telescopic antenna with a soldered patch at the end and a soldered flange at the base for screws. There is a silicone washer under the flange. The ends of the glass tube (from the fuse) are coated with silicone sealant. At the cold end of the chamber, the sleeve sits in a segment from the same antenna, but of a smaller diameter. The length of the PTFE bushings is 5 mm. The displacer stem has a diameter of 3 mm and is made up of 2 guides from a CD-DVD drive, fastened in the middle with a brass tube. The tin sides are glued to the glass cylinder with a high temperature red silicone sealant from the auto shop (in a tube). The holes for the axle are sealed with silicone washers, which are tightly put on the stem and clamped with clips.
If you find suitable parts for the camera and cylinder with different diameters, then their volumes should be in the same proportion as mine. The crank travel will also change, so adjustments should be made. Stirling is not easy to calculate, so I squeezed the maximum efficiency out of it experimentally.
There are many questions about the application of Peltier elements (EP).
Together with Stirling, they will work ineffectively, because they need a large temperature drop, which is problematic to provide in this engine. For example, if the displacer chamber is made of a heat-conducting metal (copper) and the EF is somehow clamped between its halves, then the Stirling efficiency will decrease due to the high thermal conductivity of the EF, so the overall power increase will not work.
If you make an electric generator only on the electric drive, then, due to the same thermal conductivity, the radiator will quickly heat up, which will reduce energy efficiency and will soon disable the electric drive. They are effective only in the presence of a large flame and with mandatory forced cooling, which will take a significant part of the power to power the fan.
On a low flame of an alcohol lamp, and even more so without forced cooling, this Stirling certainly wins in terms of efficiency in comparison with an EF. It is not necessary to feed it with alcohol, you can even pour oil into the spirit lamp, or heat it with a candle, the output power will even increase! It is even better to heat it up with a gas burner.
Forced blowing of the radiator with a mechanically driven fan, as experiments have shown, does not give a gain, because all the small gain is spent on the rotation of the impeller. The electric fan will only worsen the situation due to the double conversion of energy. The radiator here is sufficiently well cooled by convection, and the spokes of the flywheel disperse the air, blowing it over.
