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OK so i've been off this project a bit, have to keep it going though. I think I"m going to complete the build as designed and then test it, and then improve it from there. I know I could get caught up in improving the design for years but I really want to see if I can get a finished product fir...

airpower wrote: ↑Mon Dec 13, 2021 1:32 pm
A bit over the top engineered twin cylinder liquid cooled stove top Stirling

That looks quite overengineered, I love everything about it :)
Your own build?

Spent some time on the power cylinder last night, as well as installed the crankshaft support bearings and squared up a piece for the vertical column, here's what it looks like so far! Build Update 12-14-2021.jpg The piston slides effortlessly in its brass housing, makes a nice vacuum pop when I pul...

Updated concepting.jpg So yeah it does look like you're right We have a heated portion , a heat break/regenerator, and a cooled portion. It definitely is a vertical Gamma engine. Screenshot_1.jpg Can anyone tell me what this hole might be for? I thought these engines needed to be air-tight... might...

Similar, but not as good as horizontal cooling fins still catch a lot of the rising heat. https://youtu.be/A1Lrh10nUzo This Kontax design looks similar to what I'm building, if I can keep my friction low enough I think there's a good chance of it working. I have 2 weeks 'till Christmas, hoping to h...

Got some pics from the shop for you all. Top plate on top of the base, I've got some radiator fins I'm going to bolt down with some heat paste and you can see the beginnings of one of my crankarms. IMG_20211210_204157188_HDR.jpeg Here's the fan I've purchased for this Screenshot_1.jpg Brass pushrods...

I can probably use some fireplace insulation sandwiched between some screening as a regenerator...

I've been thinking about what you've said, there are a few things that can be done to increase my odds of winning this build. Power Cylinder Displacement: Because of the location of the power piston, I am hesitant to try and grow its surface area, however that might just be the sunken cost bias I ha...

Did that math wrong

30 - 16.8 = 13.2 cubic inches total working volume
13.2/.5 = 26.5/1 working air volume/power stroke

maybe I should make the displacer a little larger?

If the 4” pipe is very thick it will carry too much heat to the “cool” end and you won’t get the needed temp difference. It needs to be as thin and non-conductive as possible.Same for the displacer itself. hmm, good call. I was thinking of gasketing the aluminum top block to isolate it from the pip...

Figured out how to put images in lol

Anyway here's the old plan and the new plan.

https://ibb.co/f0mshS0 [image]https://ibb.co/f0mshS0[/image] If anyone can help me embed images properly send me a message lol anyway in this image you can see I've swapped over to a single pedestal and a bore-hole with the two bearings. this will make it easier to manufacture. you can see I have a...

Here's the CAD image for the design.

I figured out that it's an absolute bitch to make two parts with perfectly coaxial bearings so I'm switching to a different design

If your goal is to only circulate air from the oven you dont need a stirling engine I love these things, and you're totally right. If my only reason for doing this was the practical application, I'd buy a peltier type fan like these. The goal, though, is to specifically make a sterling engine fan a...

Worked on the build tonight, I've got to figure out how to post pictures on this forum for you all to see and help critique this thing. Made the crank-shaft arms out of brass and finished off the top plate, while I was working on it I decided I'm entirely unsatisfied with using 1/4" dowels as t...