Stirlingengineforum.com

This is the reamer I have - http://www.ebay.com/itm/371234387700 , it does look tapered so maybe I should've faced off a bit more from the end. I'll try shortening the cylinder a bit to see if the taper is at the very end. It's this engine - http://www.machinistblog.com/downloads/Striling_60/stirlin...

Hi all, I'm having a hard time machining an accurate bore for my high-temperature Stirling power piston. I'm very new to machining, and mostly learning as I go, using a Taig Micro Lathe. I made some test pieces using a boring bar and a turning tool, which fit really well. However, the actual cylinde...

Thanks Ian, I understand why I'd want brass for the power piston (more weight for the same volume), but why use it for the power cylinder as well? I would think that aluminum would actually be better since it has higher heat conductivity, so the cylinder will dissipate more heat in operation. Is the...

Hi stirling engine experts, I would like to build Jonkman's Stirling 60 engine (http://www.machinistblog.com/downloads/Striling_60/stirling_60.pdf), which is originally made out of brass. However, this is my first machining project, and brass is really expensive, so I want to use aluminum instead, e...