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Although I can't beat Andy Ross, I'm in: 3400 rpm :
http://stirlingengineforum.com/viewtopi ... 1974#p8974

Plani

Chris, Thank you for the explanation. I think too it's best to have cast iron pistons and cylinders for this size of engines. It takes just some careful machining to get a very close fit without any unnecessary friction. Let us know how the new piston and cylinder turned out. It will be very interes...

Hi Chris, This is a really nice engine you made. Thanks for sharing. Do you have any idea how much power it's putting out? And there's one more question: In your video you mention the use of quadring-rings for sealing the compression piston. What is this exactly and how do you install it in order to...

Actually, I have Dr. Organ's book too :smile: , and so it comes that I have read about the GPU-3 engine. But it looks a tiny bit intimidating to me, to say the least. And therefore I didn't dig any deeper into the matter as of yet, that's still to come. Good luck with the refit of the cylinder and k...

Ralf, this is awesome!! The new heater head seems to really pay off. Also the shaping head you made for your mill is pretty cool. I was thinking about building something like that too, but it will be a while till I get there. What are the modifications you are doing next? And would you also share so...

Joseph,
Regarding your V6 plan (what I think would be really cool), I would suggest that you start with a one cylinder engine first. Once you get that one to run the way you want it and get all bugs sorted out make a 6 Cylinder version of it to get more power.

Plani

Why NOT do it bore of 160mm or even 320mm instead of 32mm. Because I have chosen to do so. This Engine was was designed to operate with high temperatures from the beginning. As long as the output can reach to 10 to 20 Watt, it is a great help to remote poor area. I agree. So please go ahead and dev...

Thank you Kenedy, every encouragement is very much appreciated! In the mean time I have made a seal for the Shaft: Seal.jpg And a manifold to carry a manometer was made too: Manifold.jpg The Seal is a bit stiff at the moment, I hope that this one loosens up a bit when I run the engine. On the backsi...

Hi Dave I think I am going to try the shorter stroke experiment first to see which is faster. Do that please, and let us know what you find out. For power measurement you could devise some sort of Prony brake. Google will tell you how that one works... But you could also just stick your fan blade to...

Hi Dave I tried to make a sketch of what I was thinking when suggesting the triple cylinder Engine: Sketch III.jpg I hope you can get the idea. Just put three of your engines in a line. And since you mentioned an adjustable gear to drive the Fan, I was thinking why not put the Fan at 90° to the engi...

Hi Dave I would go with the more Cylinder aproach too. Because if you upsize your engine that means the surfaces grow square to the size and the volumes to the 3rd power. So if you double the size of your engine you will have four times the surface and eight times the volumes and that means you're b...

Dave, There's another question that I was wondering about: Did you ever run the engine before you installed the steel wool regenerators? I see that this is the way it's done with this type of engine, but I'm somewhat curious if it really helps or if the benefit of the regenerator is eaten away by th...

Hi Dave Congratulations to this great running engine :big smile: :big smile: :big smile: As I found, it's always a struggle to get everything just right but then it's very rewarding once the engine is running. How did you seal the glass to the rest of the cylinder, especially on the hot side? Plani

Hi Sometimes it's a small ting that makes a big difference. After the mishap with the snifter Valve a new one was made up. Therefore an new valve cup was inserted in the wrist pin block and I also drilled a hole from the back side to allow for a good airflow through the valve. This time the valve is...

Hi tew, the Displacer has in fact a dome on top of it. So it is only the length of the stroke shorter than the cylinder (plus some reserve to prevent it from hitting the top, but that's les than 1mm). The dome, also called Heylandt Crown, is made from thin walled stainless steel tube in order to kee...