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[youtube]https://youtu.be/feaVOUooXbY[/youtube]
https://youtu.be/d2SCL07b-DM

same everything, different flywheels. The bigger one is a rotor from a pedal bike diskbrake. Everything recycled, (except glue)

more on the subject of cold air outside and dwelling ambient temperature: I think the main downfall of this idea is that you will be using energy to heat your camp, and your stirling wil literally pump that heat outside. However, I would like to challenge Ian (and all) that 60-something degrees celc...

Hey, I am with Ian on this, length is the savior here, although I think you can get away with shorter than 25 mm, maybe even half of that. I found that a bicycle spoke makes an ok rod, with the bonus of threads on one side to attach it to something. The nut that goes on the spoke, once you file/dril...

find a free online copy of Andy Ross Building Stirling Engines; it will not have a solution in a box, but it will help you make your own CADs as you will have a good understanding of the thing. It is not quite 100 pages, read it in two hours.

Hey guys,

I saw this earlier, its pretty hard to beat I think... Twin LTD Solar stirling

Hey Lars, how much empty space is there under the power membrane? Just a thought. Someone here said if you want RPM, go after power. Another thought, is the function of displacer is to displace air from hot to cold and back; the function of steel wool is regenerator, i.e. allow the cold air travelin...

an update:
smaller flywheel, and inside pics
http://youtu.be/blzU6eASNpw
video of the can in action

Great, go in the direction your gut takes you. Your first stirling is running, right? As a reference point, there are many variables that can make it more efficient, from density / weight /size of displacer, to length of tube (volume of dead air), bearings, flywheel design, crank throw, membrane mat...

generally, nylon fishing wire going through a piece of inner tube will leak less then other heavier metal shafts. I would think of different gland designs, i guess the fun is testing one design vs another. Friction is the biggest enemy there, more then the leaks. As far as your pushrod - yes it can ...

you saw them videos suggesting a rotary displacer? also running a search for ideal stirling cycle showed a rotary sine slotted "cam", that might be pertinent to your question. Also, the ross yoke provides greater movement of piston then the crankthrow, making the whole thing perhaps more e...

displacer friction is easy to test - disconnect one from the crank, lift it and see if it drops under its own weight. When you say it does not run, does it "try" to run? (i.e. turn a couple of turns and stop) I would think something is leaking air - something that dried and shrunk during y...

the stroke (up and down movement of the membrane) should be sufficient for the crank to make a full turn, so yes. A consideration though, is that smaller crank throw will give less leverage - to lift up the displacer, once the whole thing is connected.

check seal: press lightly against the walls of pressure vessel. Does membrane react? if so, good. Check that it is not too tight - if the membrane is too tight, the pressure is insufficient to stretch it to make a 12x2mm stroke - heat the pressure vessel and move displacer by hand, does the membrane...

Hi, I am not sure if this would be called free piston or ringbom type; I cant make it from the video how the displacer disk is connected to membrane(s). The comments in the video are useless, but i like the idea of not having friction or more then one hole in the pressure vessel. Please help me reve...

Hey guys, post the video please! You promised!